About an hour’s drive north of the Langhe lies the Canavese countryside. Compared to Barolo and its overwhelming vistas of vineyards stretching toward the horizon, Cieck’s vineyards in the comune of San Giorgio Canavese give a feeling of bleak, beautiful solitude. Octogenarian Remo Falconieri still supervises all aspects of his thirty-year-old estate, along with his daughter Lia and right hand man Domenico Caretto. Here is a distinct and no less authentic version of nebbiolo in all its powerful and aromatic glory, with enough time in bottle to begin to reveal its nuances. We'd expect to see some hen of the woods mushrooms out there pretty soon, which in risotto form would play very nicely with this charmer.