A couple of years ago we had the good fortune to host winemaker Patri Morillo, for a night that cemented for us of the importance and distinction of the appellation of Montsant. This is an appellation that literally and figuratively sits in the shadow of the hill of Priorat, whose best wines became the darlings of international critics a few decades ago, in the height of Mondovino wine homogenization. While Montsant has benefitted to some extent from Priorat’s exposure, there’s still a struggle for identity and distinct recognition. Patri’s passion for the granite soils of Montsant and for the sustaining of traditional Spanish viticulture was evident that night a couple years ago, and it’s evident in this wine, which has evolved beautifully in its time since bottling. With still plenty of fruit, none of it cooked or dried out, this wine is all about its granitic core. Aside from the obvious plate of jamon, olives, and aged sheep’s milk cheeses, we can see this working well with the richest of meats and more elaborate meals.