There’s aglianico – rustic, massive, with runaway tannins, and then there’s aglianico – deep and structured, but with finesse, and the red wines of Grifalco fall firmly in that second category of wines, much to our pleasure. Fabrizio and Cecilia Piccin, the proprietors of Grifalco, are transplants from the village of Montepulciano, who came south to invest in what they saw having great potential – both the grape aglianico, and Basilicata, the region. “Gricos” is one of four bottlings they produce, made from a blend of fruit from four different vineyard sites whose vines average 15 years old. Aging is split half in large old barrels and half in stainless steel, yielding a wine that sidesteps aglianco’s penchant towards tannic and bitter – and is instead lively with fresh dark fruit, and satisfyingly structured. Calling all meat-lovers – here is a wine for your next ribeye on the grill.