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Michael Moosbrugger was awarded the winemaking contract at the Cistercian-owned Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg in 1996 and quickly set to work bringing its historic vineyards to the highest quality standards. Given the ubiquity of this traditional grüner, and more recently the estate's famous rosé, it's difficult to overstate the significance of Moosbrugger's work. Simply put, these are now benchmark Kamptal wines, and they keep getting better! We often direct people toward this wine, over the years called "Gobelsburger" or "Tradition", as the best starting point for understanding the Austrian native variety grüner veltliner, with its fruit-acid tension and spicy aromatics. After a brief hiatus from our shelves, we were reminded of, maybe even astonished by, its quality while dining at restaurant in Vienna. Good luck finding a more compelling and delicious white wine under $20 from anywhere right now. It enjoys pairing with classic western or eastern European cuisine just as well as spicy southeast Asian or sushi.