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101 years ago, a doctor from Madrid named Vicente Alvarez-Villamil bought a parcel of land west of the city and on the eastern edge of the Gredos mountain range which he named Bernabeleva after finding ancient carvings in boulders marking forests dedicated to the goddess of hunting. His original plantings of garnacha now form the basis of the Bernabeleva wine production, now led by the doctor’s great-grandson, Juan Diaz Bulnes. While this part of Castilian Spain sees its fair share of scorching heat, punctuated in the summer by the African winds, its elevation and old granitic soils form the perfect environment for growing grapes, as has been known for centuries. As the spotlight has returned to this wild terrain over the last quarter century, the recovery of ancient, abandoned vineyards has been the life’s work of Bulnes and a small community of like-minded farmers, including the legendary Telmo Rodriguez. “Camino” is the perfect gateway into this beguiling wine region, giving a surprising and uncommon depth of characterful fruit and freshness. Give it a shot with roasted lamb or pimenton-roasted garbanzos.