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Quincy is an appellation located on a tributary of the Loire River known as the Cher. It was actually the second AOC to be recognized in France (behind Châteauneuf-du-Pape), and who knows what turn of fate might have allowed it to be a household name instead of neighboring Sancerre? Philippe Portier’s Quincy offers all the characteristic stone fruit, citrus, white flower, and herb character we expect from the Loire. Coming from a peasant family established in Brinay for four generations, Philippe took over the family business in 1985. His wines are focused and expressive, and an excellent alternative to the ever more scarce Sancerre. Classic pairing would be seafood—flaky white fish or plump seared scallops with a bright and simple citrus-fennel salad. Or skip the hassle of making dinner and opt for fancy crackers, a tin of fish (we’ve got you covered!), and a sharp goat milk cheese similar to the local Valençay.