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Named after the martyred patron saint of Épila, whose decapitated head was found flowing upstream, Bodegas Frontonio claims a rebellious spirit of going against the tide. Based in Aragon (a northern region between Rioja and Catalonia), Fernando Mora and Mario López use a traditional, minimal approach to winemaking. Here the focus is on garnacha, which is believed to have originated in this part of Spain. The high altitude mountain vineyards of fifty plus year old bush vines are dry farmed and get whipped by the Cierzo winds in the Ebro river valley. Aging in concrete vats results in an incredibly vibrant style of garnacha, with refreshing acidity and lingering berry fruit. A graceful, easy going wine you can bring along when you don’t know what’s for dinner or reach for it while putting together a fun platter of tapas.