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With the rise in recognition of lower Austrian wines in recent years, Wagram has had trouble keeping pace with the great wines of Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal. Formerly known as Donauland, Wagram lies sandwiched between those three famous regions and the winemaking city of Wien (Vienna), yet their reputation seems to get lumped together with the northernmost wines of the Weinviertel, most of which are produced in bulk. Anton Bauer is a small, quality-minded producer who bottles five of his grüners as expressions of a single vineyard, starting with his largest production, Gmörk. We remain convinced that the wines of Austria still aren’t getting the appreciation they deserve (as you might have noticed by our repeated inclusion in this program). This is a supremely versatile white that’s great to drink on its own or with just about anything to eat.