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Monemvasia Winery is the project of the Tsimbidi family, whose aim is to restore to glory the Monemvasia region, in the southern reaches of the Peloponnese, the origin of the most highly prized wine of the Mediterranean in the Middle Ages. Relics of the region's influence persist in the form of any number of grapes called malvasia, spread throughout Europe and to the New World. The Tsimbidis grow four grape varieties, the least obscure of which is malvasia. Here we have their kydonitsa, which is by far the most obscure. We're not sure what exactly drew us to this middle-weight saline quaffer, but it kept our attention throughout a meal of seared scallops with grilled vegetables.