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Nicolas Lebrun is the president of “Terres de Gaillac”, an eleven-member association of terroir-minded vignerons in this tiny, under-appreciated southwestern appellation. Lebrun spent 12 years working for other wineries before starting his own in 2005. He farms all native varieties using biodynamic principles, harvests by hand, ferments with indigenous yeast, and adds only the bare minimum of sulfur at bottling. “Les Gourmands” is an exercise in texture, as one could get lost in its velvety, deep purple robe. Try it with slow roasted meat or a savory bread pudding.