We often find ourselves singing the unending praises of rieslings from the steep, slate heavy hillsides of the central part of Germany’s Mosel river. But if you head upstream (west), towards Luxemburg and the Saar and Ruwer tributaries, the soil changes drastically, and the wines do too. In the lesser-explored “Upper Mosel” hides Germany’s best-kept secret, one of the oldest white grape varieties in the world, and what could be accurately be called Germany’s Muscadet: ELBLING. The Upper Mosel’s soils are limestone-heavy, which through elbling translates to chalky, mouthwatering acidity and spine-tickling verve. Matthias Hild’s dry bottling is a great introduction to the grape, full of lemony herbaceous notes and a delightfully tart finish. Perhaps shuck yourself a few oysters to go along with this one.