Rado Kocijančič continues the arduous task of cultivating six steep hectares in eastern Slovenia’s reputed Brda growing district, at a site whose winemaking history goes back to the 15th century. After World War II, when Brda was transferred from Italy to Yugoslavia, the new government moved to nationalize private property, effectively claiming half of all deeded holdings from landowning families during this tumultuous period. Rado’s grandfather’s twenty hectares became ten. Although Rado would rather forget this not so distant past, he is content that his vines are planted in soils that have been compared to Burgundy’s prestigious Côte d’Or. His terrain, ponka in Slovenian dialect, encompasses calcareous/clay marls that are sandwiched between vertical layers of sandstone and derived from an ancient sea bed that has gradually risen over the span of about sixty million years. The vine’s roots are therefore able to explore fossilized marine elements that impart mineral qualities to the wines of this esteemed appellation. Similar to the generations that preceded him, Rado continues to focus on local varieties Rebula, Jakot (Tocai Friulano), and Refošk as well as newcomers Sivi Pinot (Pinot Grigio) and Sauvignon Blanc. Refošk is not the same as the Italian refosco, and is known elsewhere as resfosco terrano or teran. Its pronounced salty feel accentuates the wine’s brambly fruit and subtler savory notes.