2023 Birichino Bechtold Vineyard Cinsault

The 2023 marks our 13th harvest of this historic vineyard for Birichino, and our third decade working with the site. Our section is in the southwestern corner, which ripens later at naturally lower brix and higher acidity. This is the only red variety we destem entirely, crush lightly, and saignée as we pick early expressly for rosé. Despite that, it remains the most etheral and delicate of all our reds. As with all our wines, we ferment it native, and also avoid fining and filtration, letting time and gravity do the work, gently racking it just once at bottling. While normally carrying more earthiness, even rockiness in the lower registers, this vintage seems particularly silky, gentle and, as noted, prismatically scented and aromatically refined. The site is, farmed organically, and without irrigation. The Tokay Fine Sandy Loam soil is rich in granitic minerals washed down from the Sierra Nevada over the millenia by the nearby Mokelumne River. Lodi may be the coolest area of the Central Valley with evening temperatures moderated by breezes from the Sacramento River Delta. However, beastly hot July and August daytime temperatures can be punishing for the vines, and the workers who tend them, though these 137 year-old vines shrug off high temperatures, and bring home fully flavored grapes at remarkably modest levels of alcohol, and often surprising acidities to produce very elegant wines. All of this being said, Bechthold Cinsault, year-in and year out, shouldn’t conjure aromas of violets and irises and memories of Cru Beaujolais, but there you have it. - Birichino