Primitivo Quiles is the oldest wine producer in Alicante, and one of the great survival stories in Spanish winemaking. Don Primitivo Quiles established his vineyards and winery in 1780 and has passed the operation along from one Primitivo to the next, generation after generation, to the present day. The Alicante appellation is most famous (was most famous) for Fondillon, a solera-based rancio wine made from monastrell that was revered by monarchs and other rich people all over Europe in its heyday. “Cono 4” is certainly a more modern phenomenon, though its aging in 80-year-old conical foudres recalls some of the aromatics of Fondillon. It’s a hearty, full-throttle red that would be right at home with a steak.