In 2011, after studying and working in the Eastern Loire, Frédéric Lailler returned home to Gorges in Muscadet in search of a place where he could seek out authenticity and “elaborate living wines.” As luck would have it, André-Michel Brégeon was also looking for a successor to tend his estate. The domaine had already garnered great esteem producing complex, age worthy whites that showcase the depth of melon de Bourgogne on this unique terroir. Most of the Brégeon vineyards sit on top of gabbro (except for his Clisson cru where you find granite), an igneous rock which forms when magma cools beneath the earth’s surface. Known to lend extra focus, minerality, and tension to the wines, the gabbro terroir is on full display here. A tart burst of bright sunshine and crushed rocks, this Muscadet has much more than your typical oyster quaffer. Let this one show off a little on its own or with light snacks, or alongside seared scallops or lobster.