The story of Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux is one of reclamation. For many generations, his family owned a small domaine along the steep slopes of the foothills of the Alps in the southeast of Chambéry. His grandparents were the last to plant new vines (which form the basis of his current production) before the domaine was sold in 1976. Young Jean-Charles took an interest in winemaking, made it his course of study, and in 2006, returned to his familial homeland to re-purchase the vineyards of his familial heritage. This red is a classic expression of the Savoyard native variety mondeuse, which bears resemblance and distant genetic relation to syrah, famously grown just a little to the west of here. We love mondeuse with fresh bread and the best, well-aged mountain cheese you can find. 

Around since the 1700s, Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht is still very old-school. They earned a reputation for stunning dry wines from the Pfalz during a time when most production was still leaning toward sweeter styles. Dominik Sona & Franziska Schmitt are currently running operations, maintaining the same traditions that have been in place for decades: dry farming, no chemical treatments, long spontaneous fermentation in large, old wood barrels, et cetera. When the exclusive VDP club changed their labeling rules to no longer allow for pradikat designations on dry wines, Koehler-Ruprecht quit the club rather than change the way they’ve always done things. They don’t use fancy modern equipment and generally just allow the wine to be an expression of the vintage. Most of the production is riesling, but they also make fantastic pinot blanc, chardonnay, and pinot noir (and this bottle certainly goes toe to toe with any Burgundy in its class). The combination of cherry candy, minerals, soil, a supple mouthfeel and lively acidity will complement a number of dishes including roast pork, salmon, butternut squash or what we ended up making: white mushroom & onion pizza. Be sure to serve it lightly chilled (10-15 degrees below room temp ought to do the trick).

There’s a lot of excitement in Mendoza’s Uco Valley, where high altitude, calcareous soils in the foothills of the Andes are offering up wines with refreshing acidity. Particularly in the unique mountain climate of Gualtallary in Tupungato, which was first planted to vine in the early 1990s, having previously been considered too cold to grow grapes. In 2007, the Michelini brothers (Gerardo, Matías, and Juan Pablo) founded Zorzal and have led the charge by harvesting earlier than other growers, bucking the trend of overblown ripeness often seen in Argentinian wines. Juan Pablo Michelini and Noelia Juri are making the wine at Zorzal these days, though the Michelini family has its hands in projects all over the region. The “Terroir Unico” pinot noir comes from a single vineyard that sits 4,264 feet above sea level— unoaked and transparent, it offers a brilliant snapshot of this singular terroir. Enjoy with something simple and earthy like garlicky mushrooms over creamy polenta.